So a week or so has passed by since finishing MIA training and I’ve had a week off in Devon followed by a string of night shifts at Plas Y Brenin. That means free day times in the glorious sunshine, and there has been climbing to be had left, right and center.
MIA training has given me a re-newed and invigorated passion to get out and climb, not that it wasn’t there before, the MIA has just thrown some extra fuel on the fire! It started with a beautiful climb in Devon.
Vineyard VS 4b at The Dewerstone
Myself and Ivan finished work for the day and headed up in the haze of heat to bottom of the crag which was surprising cold considering the blazing sun. Pitch 1 was a glorious steep crack, Pitch 2 a teetering loose but amazingly cool undercut flake and Pitch 3 was a bold traverse on slopers. We topped out into the sunshine and headed down into the sun for food, drinks and sunbathing.
I then traveled back up to North Wales, into more baking sunshine!
Dolmen Ridge Grade 3
Alas no climbing partners where available so I headed up to the Glyders and made a quick round trip of Dolmen Ridge up and Y Gribin down, an awesome scramble with some cool exposure at points…another beautifully crisp and clear day in the Ogwen Valley!
The next day I met up with Tim and headed to Tremadog…a possible mistake considering the 1,000,000 degree heat that hit North Wales. Sweating and sunburn aside we grunted our way up Meshach (HVS 5a) and Nifl Helm (HVS 5a). One massively popular route, Meshach was wonderful and steeper than expected. At first I thought it would be a little eliminate following the line between Grim Wall and Shadrach, but it was totally independent and completely lovely! The second, a lesser climbed line at Tremadog, Nifl Helm, was spectacular. It starts with a through chimney, followed by an awkward leaning corner, into a fingery crimpy traverse while finishing with an offwidth! Whats not to love!
The next day me and Emily decided to hit a big one on the tick list…Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) at Wen Slab. As the name suggests it was a dream…although the sea was pancake flat. We scrambled nervously down to the ab point, abseiled down to the starting ledge and made the committing move of pulling our ropes through, that was it we had to climb out. The next four pitches where a dream of flakes, traversing and sensational climbing. The only issue, that we where shivering to start and sweating to finish. We finished up with smile on our faces and ice creams on the grass!
And the finial day, another tick list route Superdirect (HVS 5a) on Milestone under Tryfan. Having been tired and head achey in the morning I (to say the least) was not on top form. The polished holds got me and I didn’t feel as confident and ‘high’ as the previous day. Pitch one was a lovely crack with oiled mirrors for footholds. Pitch 2, my lead, was a mixture of cruxes, heavy breathing and talking myself out of my climbing ability, a few committing moves later saw me at the belay. Pitch 3, was a near horror show, neither me nor Emily where feeling particularly psyched. Emily took it on, and did a fantastic job, though watching her was not helpful beta as the line of jugs she stood on I found easier to hold…a few more moves and we let out a sigh of relief.
This week has been amazing, and I’m secretly happy for a few wet days arriving at the weekend. The burn and itch to feel like I should be out climbing is calmed when the weather is bad, plus it gives me more time to get life admin and work done! Let’s just hope after a few rainy rest days the sun returns and more cragging shall be had!