The summers here!

 So throughout the end of May and start of June the weather in Devon has been absolutly amazing, so making most of the long evenings and warm weather I’ve been taking advantage of Devon’s best climbing with trips to both Haytor and my local crag good old Chudleigh Rocks.

Haytor is one of the most popular crags on Dartmoor, being eaily accessible and with ample parking. It boasts some great routes and wide spread of grades from Mod to E6 6c. Haytor is actually split into the seperate Granite outcrops, Haytor and Lowman. Lowman being the tallest face of Granite on the moor and holding some of the only multi-pitch routes. Myself and my partner (Alex) headed up in the sun to give some of haytors problems a go.

We started by heading up Green Chimney which on the topo below is number 26, and is graded at Severe. Its a great route with plenty of gear and a fantastic introduction to offwidth climbing which always pleasent on granite. After thrutching through the top moves we also went up Bridle Piton Slab at VDiff, which has surprisingly little gear for its grade.

Bridle Piton Slab Area, Green Chimney is number 26, Brilde Piton Slab at 25

We’ve also been out enjoying the south face of chudleigh soaking up the rays. I lead a climb that in 2010 I had previously bailed off the second pitch due to the heveans opening on us. The route, called Never On Sunday (HS 4b) is split into 2 very different pitches. The first starting with an exciting bridging move to climb out of a small cave and then up and over some easy angled slabs to the first belay on a huge spike! The second pitch being a slightly more pumpy (what feels like) overhanging arete, which involves a scary step around onto the headwall on some not so good holds. You climb on up and belay at a large tree. Neven On Sunday is a fantastic route and I can’t quite believe it took me this long to finish it!

Somehow getting out of work at 3.30pm and heading off climbing makes your day seem so much longer and more fufilled, heres to lots more sunny afternoon climbing sessions!


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